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厄塞爾數

波的特性

厄塞爾數Ursell number)是流體動力學中的無量綱,表示流體層中長的表面重力波的非線性程度,得名自1953年發現此重要性的弗里茨·厄塞爾英语Fritz Ursell[1]

厄塞爾數是推導自史托克波英语Stokes wave,一個針對非線性週期波的摄动序列,在淺水英语waves and shallow water的長波極限-其波長遠大於水深時,Ursell數U可以定義如下:

若不考慮常數3 / (32 π2)的話,上述公式就是自由表面提昇振幅中,二次項和一次項的比例,[2] 有用到的參數有

  • H波高英语Wave height,也就是波峰和波谷之間的高度差。
  • h:平均水深
  • λ:波長,需遠大於深度,也就是λh.

因此厄塞爾數U是相對波高H / h乘以相對波長的平方。

針對厄塞爾數小(U ≪ 32 π2 / 3 ≈ 100)的長波(λh[3],可以用線性的波理論求解。否則(多半是通常)若針對比較長的波(λ > 7 h[4],需使用像KdV方程博欣内斯克方程等非線性的理論。此參數(經過不同的正規化)已由乔治·斯托克斯寫在他1847年的表面重力波論文中[5]

腳註

[编辑]
  1. ^ Ursell, F. The long-wave paradox in the theory of gravity waves. Proceedings of the Cambridge Philosophical Society. 1953, 49 (4): 685–694. Bibcode:1953PCPS...49..685U. doi:10.1017/S0305004100028887. 
  2. ^ Dingemans (1997), Part 1, §2.8.1, pp. 182–184.
  3. ^ This factor is due to the neglected constant in the amplitude ratio of the second-order to first-order terms in the Stokes' wave expansion. See Dingemans (1997), p. 179 & 182.
  4. ^ Dingemans (1997), Part 2, pp. 473 & 516.
  5. ^ Stokes, G. G. On the theory of oscillatory waves. Transactions of the Cambridge Philosophical Society. 1847, 8: 441–455. 
    Reprinted in: Stokes, G. G. Mathematical and Physical Papers, Volume I. Cambridge University Press. 1880: 197–229. 

參考資料

[编辑]
  • Dingemans, M. W. Water wave propagation over uneven bottoms. Advanced Series on Ocean Engineering 13. Singapore: World Scientific. 1997. ISBN 981-02-0427-2.  In 2 parts, 967 pages.
  • Svendsen, I. A. Introduction to nearshore hydrodynamics. Advanced Series on Ocean Engineering 24. Singapore: World Scientific. 2006. ISBN 981-256-142-0.  722 pages.
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厄塞爾數
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