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笼巾 .
唐代戴高顶乌纱帽的男子 乌纱高屋帽 ,又称笼巾 ,高屋乌纱帽 、黑纱高屋帽 、高顶乌纱帽 等,是汉服首服 中高屋帽 和乌帽 的一类,因以黑纱制成而得名。最早出现于东晋 ,流行于南朝至宋代,有白、乌两种[1] 。乌帽 为官员和士庶通用,又称乌纱帽 ,但与后世别称为“乌纱帽”的官帽非同一种帽子。[2] 相反白色的白纱帽 则为皇室专用。
乌纱高屋帽在隋代 时,被当作是官服 的一种。《通典 》记载说:隋文帝 开皇初,尝著乌纱帽,自朝贵已下至于冗吏,通著入朝。隋代帝王贵臣,多服黄文绫袍、乌纱帽、九环带、乌皮大合靴。[3] [4] 唐代,不论贵贱,天子百官、庶民百姓均可以戴服它。[5] 乌帽在唐代是一种日常便帽,不少唐代文人都曾在其诗句中提及乌帽。如柳宗元 有诗句: “春衫裁白纻,朝帽挂乌纱。”[6] 李白 曾有《答友人赠乌纱帽》诗: “领得乌纱帽,全胜白接鬵。”白居易 在其《初冬早起寄梦得》中也有“起戴乌帽,行披白布裘”的句子。
宋代 时士庶依然有服乌纱高屋帽,由于白纱高屋帽 在隋唐之后已消失,宋人诗词所提及高屋帽应是指乌帽,如苏轼 《椰子冠》诗:“规模简古人争看,簪导轻安发不知。更著短檐高屋帽, 东坡何事不违时。”此诗一出,当时人更纷纷仿效苏轼戴上短檐高屋乌帽,称为“子瞻样”[7] 。
^ 高屋帽 . [2013-11-04 ] . (原始内容 存档于2013-11-04).
^ 《隋书‧礼仪志》七:“案宋齐之间,天子宴私,着白高帽,士庶以乌,其制不定。或有卷荷,或有下裙,或有纱高屋,或有乌纱长耳。……今复制白纱高屋帽。”
^ 《大唐新语》: “隋代帝王、贵臣多服黄纹绫袍、乌纱帽、九环带、乌皮六合靴。”
^ 《新唐书·车服志》:"初隋文帝听朝之服,以赭黄纹绫袍、乌纱帽、折上巾、六合辙,与贵臣通服。"
^ 《中华古今注》:“武德九年十一月,太宗诏曰:自今以 后,天子服乌纱帽,百官士庶皆同服之。”
^ 唐柳宗元《同刘二十八院长寄澧州张使君八十韵》
^ 李廌 《师友谈记》:士大夫近年仿 东坡 桶高檐短帽,名曰子瞻样。”
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