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花呢格纹

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花呢格纹布

花呢格纹是一种由数种色彩不同的直、横条纹交错构成的花样。花呢格布最早都是由羊毛织成的,但今日也有许多纺织厂以不同材质织造。花呢格纹在苏格兰的历史上源远流长;传统苏格兰裙一直以来几乎都有格纹花样。

1746年詹姆斯党宣布的“服装法英语Act of Proscription 1746”曾试图禁止苏格兰武士氏族穿着花呢格布以及其他盖尔族的传统,希望借此将该区域纳入政府管控。这条法律后来在1782年废止。此后这种装扮就不再是日常高地居民的穿着,而变成了苏格兰国家象征性的服饰。

直到十九世纪中,不同花样的高地花呢格纹仍是与不同地域相关(而非代表不同氏族)。这是因为每一种花呢格纹都是由同地区的织工所设计。设计时要尽量配合当地出产的天然染料,以及当地居民的审美观。而十九世纪中期过后,特定的花呢格纹图样渐渐与特定的苏格兰氏族或家族(或是有着苏格兰传统的机构)产生联结。其中,以代表Black Watch和Royal Stewart的两种,最广为人喜爱。

今日花呢格纹的利用不再只限于织品,而是广泛应用于纸张印刷、包装、甚至壁饰上。

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花呢格纹
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